Chartier
Sunday’s menu at Chartier, 7 Rue de Faubourg Montmatre, where I never go these days, but always consider. The big Balzacian Eating Hall of a place always has a queue minutes after it has opened for lunch or dinner. It’s not surprising really when the guided repast can be had for €20.70, according to the menu for March 1st, and that includes fizzy water, maybe even wine, but I’m not sure these days, but it used to be. If not, where else could you get a bottle of Bordeaux for €12.95? I ask you! You will be well abused by the waiters, who will write your order and bill on the paper tablecloth, but that’s all part of the game of imbibing in Cuisine Populaire in these vitreous surrounds . I doubt it has changed since the nineteenth century. I had to write about it out of nostalgic admiration, but these days I can no longer eat their three-course suggestion or drink their over-fresh Bordeaux : what a place! SC
notes from an urban hibernation 